Irresistible rosés for summer

It’s midsummer so the prime time for pink wine! Don’t settle for wishy-washy, dodgy rosés, says our Drinks Editor James Viner. Go for these eight expressive still and fortified bottles that bring real depth and value instead…

What Makes Rosé Pink?

The colour of rosé wines falls between red and white. They are crafted mainly in two ways: direct pressing or short maceration. The latter technique is preferred. Here, dark-coloured grapes (often made from relatively light-pigmented grapes like Grenache and Cinsault) are crushed, and the juice sits with the skins just long enough to absorb the desired blush of colour. Once the right hue is reached, the juice is drained or pressed off the skins, then fermented like a white wine.

Rosé by Numbers

Around one in every ten bottles of wine consumed globally is pink (the French, in particular, are devoted fans). Oak-aged rosé remains a rarity; Château d’Esclans’ Garrus sets the gold standard at around £100 a bottle. For something more wallet-friendly, here are seven exceptional still and sparkling rosés— plus a fantastic pink (fortified) vermouth—to chill when the heat returns. Try these…

Sparkling rosé:

1. Bouvet Ladubay Saumur Rosé Brut NV, Loire, France £10 mix 6, Majestic (12.5%)

Did you know that France is the world’s leading producer of rosé wine, accounting for 30% of global production, followed by Spain at 21%? Seek out this stylish, pink Cabernet Franc-based bubbly from the Loire, which is made using the same way as champagne but doesn’t have the hefty price tag. It marries expressive red fruit and peach flavours with dancing acidity and has a zesty, tastebud-tingling finish. A fine aperitif that complements both salads and fish.

2. Tesco Finest English Sparkling Rosé Brut NV, Balfour Winery, Kent £22, Tesco (11.5%)

Pinglish anyone? I love this delicious local wine: think of an alluring nosegay of summer fruits, with a suggestion of brioche. Made by Balfour Winery at Hush Heath Estate, a homegrown hero and key member of the Wine Garden of England collective of nine producers. It is 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Pinot Meunier. Perfect with seafood, sushi and fish and chips.

Still picks:

3. 2024 Toro Loco Superior Bobal Rosé, Utiel-Requena, Spain £5.49, Aldi (11.5%)

Don’t be sniffy about this fun, quaffable, light-bodied, unoaked, all-Bobal rosado from high-altitude vineyards (600-900m) in the hills inland of Valencia, southeastern Spain, that tastes like ripe cherries and juicy wild strawberries, with a hint of citrus, and is excellent at the price. Ideal with barbecued fish, seafood and summery salads. Avoid the 2023 vintage – it’s past its best (you might spot a few still lingering on Aldi’s shelves before the pristine 2024 arrives)!

4. 2024 Rosé Duo des Plages, Pays d’Oc, France £7.95; £21 (2.25L bag-in-box), The Wine Society (12%)

Terrific value for a charming, dangerously drinkable Cinsault-forward pale, dry Languedoc pink—a fridge-door must-have—with an herbaceous edge, hints of red fruits, and spice. Pairs beautifully with grilled meats, salads, and chicken tikka masala.

5. 2024 Romain Leroy, Waitrose Loved & Found Caladoc Rosé, Pays d’Oc, France £9.25, Waitrose (12.5%)

Caladoc is a dark-skinned crossing of late-ripening Grenache and Malbec created in 1958 to grow in southern France and resist coulure (poor fruit set, which reduces yields). This silken rosé has appetising notes of spice, herbs, blackberries and red fruit. Made for summer salads, mild curries, and grilled salmon.

6. 2024 Studio by Miraval Rosé, IGP Méditerranée, France £10-£12, Co-opTescoSainsbury’s (12.5%)

My kind of pale, peachy, blood orange- and grapefruit-licked, sushi-loving rosé made from Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle and Tibouren. Produced by Famille Perrin at the legendary Château Miraval—yes, where Pink Floyd recorded. Ideal for Mediterranean fare and park picnics.

7. 2024 Berry Bros. & Rudd Provence Rosé by Château la Mascaronne, Côtes de Provence, France £16.50, Berry Bros & Rudd (13%)

Around 90 per cent of Provence’s wine is pink. This classy, gossamer-fine, capsule-free, bestselling house label from Britain’s oldest wine merchant is fashionably pale and fuses Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Vermentino. Bursting with wild strawberry and garrigue herb charm, it’s the archetypal kind of food-friendly, vivacious, organic Provençal pink for midsummer. Pour with salade niçoise, vitello tonnato or prawns with aioli. A Provençal classic – bullseye brilliance.

Fortified fun:

8. Lustau Vermut Rosé, Jerez, Spain £13.00 (on offer until 29 July, save £2.50) Waitrose (15%) 50cl

Lockdown turned aromatised and fortified boomerang vermouth into a home-bar hero. Sales at Waitrose are booming. This delectable, rare pink Spanish offering from a top sherry house shines in a Martini or spritz and is a winner over ice with a slice of pink grapefruit. Aperitivo o’clock? Always. ¡Chinchín!

Follow James on Twitter:
@QuixoticWines 

Eileen Leahy
Author: Eileen Leahy

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