Think Pink
During midsummer’s peak rosé season demand for pink wine soars as enthusiasts seek out its thirst-quenching, delicate allure. Our drinks editor James Viner reveals how to bring a taste of chic Provence to your table with some expert-chosen rosés. Santé to summer!
Rosé Wine, a Provençal Speciality
The sun-drenched wild hills of the southeastern region of Provence, between the Alps and the Rhône, are well-known for their stunning landscapes and refreshing, effortlessly drinkable, pale-pink rosé wine. According to figures from the trade body Vins de Provence (CIVP), 91% of the 174 million bottles produced there in 2022 were rosé, representing about 43% of France’s total AOC rosé production.
Deft Winemaking
Rosé wine has seen a tremendous surge in popularity over the past 20 years, with Provence leading the way in its marketing, research and development. France astonishingly consumes one-third of the world’s rosé! The success story of its rosé de Provence, made primarily from Grenache Noir and Cinsaut, is the outcome of the passionate vision, fervent drive, and unwavering determination of generations of winemakers.
The Centre du Rosé, established in 1999, is the world’s only research and experimentation centre dedicated to rosé wines. It shares its expertise with individual growers, co-ops, and négociants, contributing to the enhancement of rosé de Provence. In particular, advancements in temperature and oxygen control have significantly improved the quality of rosé wine production.
Provence remains the leader of the pink wine category, holding steadfast at the summit despite increasing competition. I’ve selected six delicious Provençal rosés to keep you in the pink. Treat yourself to a splash of liquid sunshine (let’s hope the real sunshine joins the party soon!) …
1. 2023 COMMANDERIE DE PEYRASSOL ‘LES TEMPLIERS’ ORGANIC ROSÉ, Côtes de Provence
£10.99 mix 6 (£13.99 mix 6 after 22 July), Majestic, 13%
At the top of my list is an exquisite organic rosé, exclusively crafted for Majestic at a historic estate founded by the Knights Templar in the thirteenth century. This distinguished pink showcases enchanting notes of peach, herbs, and raspberry. A fab price for a pukka Provençal bottle from the classic, original appellation, with a long, unwavering finish. Chill it for griddled seafood, ratatouille or a barbecued butterflied leg of lamb.
2. 2023 MAS DE CADENET HÉRITAGE ROSÉ, FAMILLE NEGREL, Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire DGC
£14.50, Co-op, 12.5%
Sainte-Victoire is a sub-region or ‘cru’ — like Lugny (Mâcon Lugny) in Burgundy — within the Côtes de Provence appellation (there are four other ‘dénominations géographiques complémentaires’). This is a crisp, stylish example from an iconic estate, all silky, seductive white peach, redcurrant and pink grapefruit pizzazz. Exceedingly pale in colour – ‘nacre’ (mother of pearl) if you will – but revitalising, delicious and long. Magnifique! One for bouillabaisse.
3. 2023 MIP* MADE IN PROVENCE CLASSIC ROSÉ, DOMAINE DES DIABLES, Côtes de Provence
£15.95 in a case of 12, Lea & Sandeman, 13%
Just as enchanting, this stylish, zesty, Cinsault-forward rosé from a brilliant producer in the medieval village of Puyloubier has delicate flavours of cassis, garrigue scrub and grapefruit, making it perfect for summer dining. Pour as an apero, or with salade Niçoise, moussaka and anything where garlicky aïoli or skorthalia are involved. Splendid visitor accommodation. www.maison-mip.com
4. 2023 CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence www.vignelaure.com
£16, The Wine Society,13% (£33, magnum)
Located around 20 miles northeast of Aix with vineyards around 400 metres above sea level, Vignelaure was built in the 1960s by art lover Georges Brunet, once owner of Bordeaux’s Château La Lagune. Made in the arid Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence appellation from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (Brunet brought this grape to Provence), Rolle, Syrah and Grenache – Provence’s most planted grape variety – this is a bright, organic and food-friendly pink with lingering red berry fruit, white peach, pomelo and pomegranate flavours. Pass the seafood/tomato/Greek/Chicken Caesar salad, tuna steak and pissaladière.
5. 2023 M&S Coteaux Varois-en-Provence Rosé, magnum
£18, Marks & Spencer, Ocado, 13% (1.5 litres)
Tremendous value for a quaffable magnum of rosé from the wild, green appellation of Varois-en-Provence, which is cushioned from the warming maritime effect by the hills of Ste-Baume. Expect delicate red fruit and floral aromatics. Lots of fun.
6. 2023 Château Sainte Marguerite en Provence Cru Classé, ‘Fantastique’ Rosé, Côtes de Provence
www.saintemargueriteenprovence.com
Around £21-£30, Premium Grands Crus, Vinatis, 13%
About 20 miles east of Toulon, near La Londe-les-Maures, lies Château Sainte Marguerite. Renowned for its high-end rosé wines, this expanding estate boasts over 200 hectares of organically farmed vineyards, primarily on schistous, clay-free soils. As elsewhere in Provence, the insistent, dry, cleansing Mistral wind is extremely advantageous for viticulture.
Sainte Marguerite’s dazzling ‘Fantastique’ rosé, launched in 2017, epitomizes the distinctive coastal terroir and masterful craftsmanship of this renowned winery, now gearing up for its 49th harvest. Crafted from the best plots of Grenache, Cinsault, and Rolle grapes it has sophisticated flavours of white peach, grapefruit, passion fruit and pear, all harmoniously stitched together with a fine thread of acidity. A subtle hint of jasmine adds another layer of complexity to this high-pedigree, gastronomic wine. Visit the estate for tours, wine tastings and culinary events. Nearby accommodation is available.
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