Bowled over by Bowleys

With its Michelin Guide and AA Rosette recognition and adventurous seasonal tasting menus, Bowleys has become one of the county’s most exciting dining destinations. Eileen Leahy pays it a visit…

It’s not every day you receive an invitation to dine at a Michelin Guide approved and AA Rosette restaurant. But that’s exactly how my husband and I found ourselves dining at Bowleys restaurant in Trottiscliffe recently.

Located in the heart of this charming rural Kentish village near the North Downs, the restaurant forms part of The Plough pub, a Grade II listed building which first opened its doors in 1817.

After fighting off various development plans over the years, in 2017 The Plough was declared an Asset of Community Value after 112 locals bought it. 

In 2020 it reopened as a pub and that same year the Yates family took over the running of the building. Since then Head Chef Alex Yates and his wife Grace, who is Bowley’s General Manager and Sommelier, have successfully transformed it into the popular fine dining destination it is today.

“We have lots of regular local customers but so many coming from further afield too,” explains Alex as we take our seats in Bowleys’ beautiful beamed dining room.

“We have lots of people coming down from South London, thanks mainly to our close proximity to both the M26 and M20 motorways but also because we’re in the Michelin Restaurant guide and boast an AA Rosette,” he smiles. 

Alex trained at Westminster Kingsway College before going to work at The Goring Hotel, where he reveals he gained invaluable Michelin experience. He adds that his passion for honest, seasonal and sustainable cooking – which is Bowleys’ culinary calling card – was shaped by his family’s long connection to hospitality and a deep respect for quality produce.

Talking of which, it’s worth noting that pretty much everything on Bowleys’ menus will always be sourced as locally as possible. Vegetables, herbs and fruits come from the restaurant’s nearby kitchen garden nursery whilst much of their cheese is sourced from nearby Winterdale’s impressive cave.

You can dine a la carte here or from one of the set menus. Tonight we’re sampling the restaurant’s signature Kentish Tasting Menu (£90 per head). It comprises eight courses – surfing from snacks and a bread course to fish, seafood, meat, cheese and dessert. 

You can add in a wine flight if you so desire – a five wine pairing costs £60 per head and a six one is priced at £65 per head. And given that Bowleys’ has its own vineyard I’d highly recommend you do.

But if you’re worried about who should be driving then here’s some good news: Bowleys has a special agreement with Uber but it also has accommodation just up the road too.

After being served an aperitif – a flute of Bowleys’ Pinot Noir Rose for me (£9) and a Plot 5 non-alcoholic cocktail for my husband, which boats a medley of fragrant herbs from Bowleys’ nursery and a measure of Pentire Seaweed gin (£13), we settle in for the evening.

Grace oversees the wine and drinks list and also works directly with local vineyards including Bowleys’ eponymously named wines which are made in Wateringbury. The whole team at Bowleys work incredibly hard to ensure every diner has the best and most authentic experience possible.

The restaurant’s décor is an effortless mix of heritage hallmarks with contemporary accents. Think vintage illustrations and antique mirrors matched with cool statement wall lighting, plush teal velvet seating and wooden tables.

First up on our tasting menu are the ‘snacks’ – an inventive trio of Smoked Roe Coronet with aubergine, Welsh Rarebit and Dorset Crab. The mini cones and rarebit are served first and after we have both oooh’d and aaah’d at their stunning presentation, (a theme that will go on throughout the evening given the attention to aesthetic detail that is ever-present here), we dive in. 

The roe tastes of the sea whilst the aubergine is perfectly gooey and smoky – needless to say these coronets are gone in one mouthful. The Welsh Rarebit boasts a divine buttery pastry and a punchy yet melt-in-the-mouth Winterdale cheese filling adorned with edible flowers from Bowleys’ nursery. The final snack – finely shredded Dorset Crab packed into a delicate latticed pastry – comes served in its shell and is perfectly seasoned with a subtle citrus kick and more edible flowers. Just like all of Alex’s cooking it is innovative and adventurous – and incredibly moreish. Oh, and quite literally picture perfect.

We’re then presented with a 48hr Focaccia, golden in colour and light-as-a-feather in texture. It’s accompanied by a quenelle of smoked butter and a rich duck parfait enveloped in a glossy port glaze. It’s simply sensational and if I could eat this every day I would be very happy.

Next is Cured Red Mullet. It features slivers of smoked eel, basil and a highly addictive jalapeno granita. It’s also served with little homemade seeded crackers and is utterly delicious. Who knew eel could look so refined and taste so good?

We are equally as impressed with the Artichoke Agnolotti, Alex’s riff on a classic stuffed pasta from Piedmonte in Italy. It comes with a fragrant salsa verde and tiny shards of William Pear sourced from just down the road. 

A generous portion of the freshest Chalk Trout, served with a creamy white sauce boasting oyster leaf, capers, Chegworth apples and more of Bowleys’ nursery herbs is pure epicurean excellence and sets us up for the next course: Glover Beef Fillet.

Seared to perfection – and with the cutest of mini Ox Tail Wellingtons, a decadent jus and a glazed beef mille-feuille carrot that, thanks to its innovative presentation and sensational taste, was definitely vying for main course character status – this was the ideal way to finish our dinner. 

Already feeling pleasantly sated we skipped the optional cheese course (£10 per head) and headed straight to dessert. Just like all of Alex’s dishes this indulgent St Paul’s chocolate torte was highly impressive in its presentation and tasted utterly delicious. It came served with a shard of sea salted dark chocolate and a tiny glass of Guinness – a nod to the Bowley family’s brewing roots which date back centuries to the St Paul’s area of Bristol.

Before leaving we’re offered Bowleys’ take on the traditional petits fours final course. As you would expect this wasn’t sugared fruit jellies or French fancies but very much a reflection of Alex’s adventurous approach. As well as a couple of perfectly glazed strawberries from nearby Hugh Lowe’s farm, there were also candied Lego Men and caramel Lego Bricks. It was the perfect ending to a highly memorable evening…