Perk up your palate with these rare reds

Stuck in a wine rut? It’s time to reboot and think outside the (wine) box, says Drinks Editor James Viner. Give these six joyful offerings from uncommon grape varieties a try…

Last month, I felt a surge of adventure and decided to step away from my usual favourites, like Cabernet Sauvignon—the world’s most widely cultivated red wine grape – and Pinot Noir. Press tastings got underway speedily and I came across six swiggable and affordable red wines made from lesser-known, oddball, autochthonous varieties in more esoteric wine regions.

Off-piste wine drinking has never been easier with a noticeable ongoing fashion for indigenous grape varieties (hello specialist premium Greek produce importer Maltby & Greek). This month, I’ve chosen six quirky charmers that will excite any palate. And the best part? Four can be snagged on the high street for under £9! Try these…

1. 2022 BODACIOUS TEJO, Portugal (£7.47, Asda, 13%)

Punching above its weight, this dynamic blend comes from central-southern Portugal, just inland from Lisbon. Mostly Aragonez and Castelão, with a good dollop of Petit Verdot and Touriga Nacional, it oozes fat, bold red fruit with a satisfyingly long finish, all underpinned by a fine gauze of ripe tannins and a kiss of oak. Fruit quality is exemplary—a bargainous high-street cracker.

2. 2023 M&S FOUND REFOSCO, DOMUS VINI, Veneto, Italy (£8.50, Marks & Spencer & Ocado, 13%)

Marks & Spencer’s successful ‘Found’ range showcases unique native grape varieties and unusual regions at very reasonable prices. There are many gems. One standout is this tangy, crunchy, unoaked, refreshing Refosco from north-eastern Italy, with scents of herbs, red fruits and undergrowth. Terrific value.

3. 2022 JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS ALICANTE BOUSCHET, Alentejo, Portugal (£8.95, Co-op, 13%)

Deliciously fruity, unoaked red from southern Portugal’s Alentejo, bursting with crowd-pleasing bright strawberry, cassis and hint of aged balsamic vinegar, made from 85% Alicante Bouschet – a French red-fleshed ‘teinturier’ or ‘dyer’ French cross – and 15% Alfrocheiro. The juicy finish is the perfect cherry on top.

4. 2023 Calmel & Joseph, Loved & Found Piquepoul Noir, France (£9, Waitrose, 12.5%)

Like M&S, Waitrose has an intriguing range of wines made from lesser-known grapes called ‘Loved & Found.’ Seek them out, especially this easy-drinking, fleshy, gluggable, Piquepoul Noir, an ancient grape variety from the Vaucluse department in Provence, with lots of appealing cassis and summer pizzazz. It’s a delicious experience lightly chilled.

5. 2023 TBILVINO SAPERAVI, Kakheti, Georgia (£11.99 mix 6, Majestic, 13%)

Majestic Wine had its ‘best-ever’ Christmas with soaring Greek, Lebanese and Georgian wine sales. Wine is completely embedded in Georgia’s culture and religion, with a tradition stretching back around 8000 years. The country has around 500 indigenous grape varieties (and clones), including ancient, distinctive, trendy Saperavi (you’ll find one listed at Lemons Bar on the Pantiles) – one of just a handful of grapes in the world with red pulp – from the southwest of the country, which producer Tbilvino refers to as the ‘new Malbec.’ This sappy, top-selling, textbook example presents a wide array of wild berry, inky black plum, cherry and blackberry flavours, plus subtle liquorice and sandalwood notes. Great gear!

6. 2021 THE SOCIETY’S EXHIBITION NAOUSSA XINOMAVRO, THYMIOPOULOS, Macedonia, Greece (£14.95, The Wine Society, 13%)

Pay attention grape explorers and prepare to kick-start your winter tastebuds, this is liquid joy from a star winemaker! Like Italy and Portugal, Greece is a treasure trove of unique wines made from established local vine varieties. This medium-bodied, deftly oak-aged red comes from an outstanding producer specialising in terroir-driven, organically-farmed Xinomavro (which translates as ‘acid black’), Greece’s most esteemed indigenous black grape variety. Riffs on plums, dried tomato, herbs, olives, tea and red cherries. Recalling the celebrated Nebbiolo grape of Italy’s Barolo, it’s soulful, grainy-textured and quite pale with a lovely acid line, great vitality and an impression of exquisite purity throughout. Apostolos Thymiopoulos continues to polish his skills in the hills of Macedonia. Memorable drinking.