Raise a glass to toast a classic…

Chardonnay has triumphantly reclaimed its crown after losing popularity in the late 1980s, says our Drinks Editor James Viner. Here he celebrates the iconic white grape of Burgundy ahead of International Chardonnay Day on May 22

Chardonnay is the world’s second most planted white grape, covering over 210,000 hectares (OIV, 2020). From crisp and steely to rich and creamy, its boundless versatility shines across nearly every wine region – a winemaker’s dream and a wine lover’s delight. So it’s only right that it has a designated day to celebrate it. 

To mark the occasion on May 22, I’ve handpicked six exceptional bottles from four countries — including a local standout from Kent’s Simpsons’ Wine Estate, famed for its lime-rich chalk soils. 

Each one captures the signature elegance, versatility, and global allure of this naturally vigorous, easy-to-grow, early-budding, essentially non-aromatic French superstar.

Not a fan of Sauvignon Blanc’s prickly higher acidity? Then Chardonnay might just be your new best friend. Chacun à son goût! Here’s what to try next:

1.    2021 The Society’s Exhibition Santa Barbara County Chardonnay, Fess Parker, California, USA (£17, price held, The Wine Society, 14%)

A luminous California bargain for Chardonnay lovers with well-judged moderate oak influence for present-day, not future, drinking. Impressive from first to last sip, this is a scrumptious delight, and a whizz with everything from mac and cheese, roast chicken and brie to chicken or fish in creamy or butter-based sauces. As good as California Chardonnay gets between £15 and £20.

2.    2023 M&S Florent Rouve Viré-Clessé, Burgundy, France (£18, M&S, 13.5%)

White burgundy is Chardonnay par excellence. Hit the heady Viré-Clessé heights of the Mâconnais district of southern Burgundy with this polished, ripe-fruited 2023 from Domaine Florent Rouve. With a light dusting of oak, it is a fabulously delicious, hazelnut-spiced and apple-orchard-fruited, food-friendly Chardonnay from 25-year-old vines rooted in limestone-rich soils. Serious bang for your Burgundy buck, offering a rounder texture, lower acidity, more body and a softer profile than classic Chablis (see below).

3.    2023 Simpsons Gravel Castle Chardonnay, Kent (£18.50-£20, Simpsons Wine, Corkk & Noble Green Wines, 12.5%)

Chardonnay is the UK’s most planted grape variety, covering around 1331ha (32% of the total vineyard area). Kent’s Simpsons’ Wine Estate is situated at Barham in the Elham Valley in the North Downs. Produced by a talented winemaking team led by Den’e Van Wyk and Adrian Mohor, this unoaked, lip-smacking gem from a bumper harvest is propelled by sapid, briny acidity and gets my vote. Think green fruit, citrus, quince, orange blossom and crushed stones. Classy, stylish, and distinctly Chablis-like, with flinty mineral notes on the protracted finish. Bravo! Book a special blind tasting at Corkk Tunbridge Wells, who stock this wine, to celebrate World Chardonnay Day on 22 May here.

4.    2020 Pegasus Bay Chardonnay, Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, New Zealand (£25, Tesco, 14%)

Splash out on a sophisticated French oak-aged (puncheons – larger barrels – were used), full-bodied Kiwi Chardonnay – in my opinion, the country’s best variety – from the central east coast of New Zealand’s South Island with vanilla pod, rock melon, roast chestnut, lemon curd, saline, spicy oak and struck match oomph. Multi-layered, long and persistent, it’s a beauty. Watch for Clubcard 25% discounts! This has some X-factor.

5.    2022 Chablis, Dessus La Carrière, Didier & Pascal Picq, Burgundy, France (£26.50, Berry Bros & Rudd, 12.5%)

From the revered estate run by brothers Didier and Pascal Picq based in Chichée, just 3km south of the town of Chablis, this is an electrifying, limpid textbook wine with a crisp telltale oyster shell, saline, subtle green apple and stony/gunflint (‘goût de pierre à fusil’) character. The grapes come from three plots planted on limestone, which, as the name indicates, sit above a quarry. Exemplary, hugely appetising unoaked Chablis – and a great buy compared with so many white burgundies. Oysters and fish with beurre blanc love this.

6.    Le Mesnil Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV Champagne, France (£40, Waitrose Cellar, 12.5%)

A blanc de blancs Champagne is made wholly from Chardonnay grapes, bringing drive, finesse, creaminess and longevity. This is an impeccably balanced, rewarding, classic apéritif: pure, dry, gently biscuity, mouth-watering and exceedingly appetising, it fills the mouth with bright acidity, keeping everything on a tight leash. Bullseye full-flavoured bubbly from a high-calibre cooperative based in the greatest Grand Cru Chardonnay village. Sushi, tandoori chicken or quail’s eggs, anyone? Classy stuff. Push the boat out. 

On a budget? Lidl’s well-composed Chevalier de Fauvert Chardonnay (£4.85, Pays d’Oc, France) offers easy-drinking charm at a bargain price. Which bottle will you open first?

Follow James on Instagram @QuixoticWines