Festive Favourites

If there was ever a time for celebration and indulgence, it’s Christmas. The festive season calls for joyful wines with real personality, says our Drinks Editor James Viner who picks his favourites

From a glorious Greek red to an exceptional Kentish sparkler, I’ve picked some of my favourite bottles of fizz, white, red, sweet and fortified wines to celebrate Christmas, match seasonal dishes and ring in the new year.

BEST… fizz

1. Fun party bubbly:
2021 The Society’s Cava Reserva Brut, Spain (£9.76, The Wine Society, 12%)

This consistently crowd-pleasing, dry, crisp and bargainous organic Cava from Sumarroca is delicious on its own or with canapés, making it an excellent choice for festive celebrations. A pity there are no magnums! However, if you’re catering for large numbers and can splash out, lavish hosts can impress guests with a 3L Jéroboam (4 bottles) of The Wine Society’s Alfred Gratien NV Champagne (£144.25).

2. Formidable Christmas French fizz gift from Majestic:

Bouvet Ladubay Saumur Brut de Loire NV, France (£10 mix 6, Majestic 3-31 Dec, 12.5%)

Festive bubbly doesn’t have to mean champagne. Made from Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay and delivering notes of lime and orchard fruits, plus subtle hints of flowers and brioche, this stylish bottle-fermented fizz from a go-to Loire producer is a compelling option on the mix six deal. Don’t miss out on 2024’s best traditional method sparkling wine offer—grab it while you can!

3. Kiwi sensation:

Hunter’s MiruMiru Marlborough Brut NV, New Zealand (£17.99, mix 12, Laithwaites, 12%)

Unsurprisingly for a country known for cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, New Zealand has a small but blossoming sparkling wine industry – and Jane Hunter is a leading light. Cheapest price all year for this scrumptious, bouncy, butter-biscuity, nutty and red apple-licked trad method fizz. Loves smoked salmon.

4. Classy Champagne:

Asda Exceptional Champagne Benoît Renaud Blanc de Noirs Brut NV, France (£25, mix any 6+ bottles and save 25% until 15 Dec, Asda, 12%)

Champagne, always, especially for celebrations. Brimming with suave buttered toast, biscuity and red fruit flavours, this appetising wine from on-song Jeeper is my favourite high-street champagne. Spot on to pop with breakfast kippers/scrambled eggs and smoked salmon or sushi, gougères, oysters and rillettes de la mer. Top gift, too.

5. Brilliant Kent bubbly:
2019 Herbert Hall Brut, Marden, Kent (£35.95-£39.50, Lea & Sandeman mix any 6, herberthall.co.uk, 12%)

This refined single-estate vintage wine crafted from organic grapes near Marden boasts a stylish, precise profile with beautifully integrated aromas of patisserie, floral notes, stone fruit, and white peach that will stop you in your tracks. Racy and persistent with a fine bead and deliciousness in spades, it’s a worthy toast for the New Year.

BEST… whites & reds

6. Zesty white:
2023 Baron de Guers Picpoul de Pinet, France (£9, Sainsbury’s, down from £11 with Nectar until 1 Jan, 13%)

Nab this zingy, breezy, lime peel and peach-stashed French white from low-lying land near the Mediterranean Sea and bring it out for the Boxing Day buffet! Ideal also for salads, shellfish and fish pie. Sunshine in a glass.

7. Turkey/shellfish-loving white: 2020 Pegasus Bay Chardonnay, North Canterbury, New Zealand (£20, buy any 6+ bottles and save 25% on Clubcard price, Tesco, 14%)

Scoop up this super-smart, gently oaked, Burgundy-aping New Zealand Chardonnay from one of the South Island’s best producers. It’s racy and nicely evolved, with depth and energy, a creamy palate and a lingering, satisfying finish. Flavours build just the right nuance of oak spice. Catnip for white Burgundy fans. Hello roast turkey and crab!

8. Glorious Greek red:
2023 Lyrarakis Liatiko, Crete (£11.99 mix 6, Majestic, 13.5%)

Tasting of bittersweet dark cherry and wild berries and overflowing with full-throttled life, this seductive, juicy, pale Cretan Liatiko is admirably persistent for the price. Winemaker Myriam Ambuzer’s magic dust is much in evidence. So much to enjoy, with or without food (it’s ace with tuna and braised lamb!) – serve slightly chilled. Pure pleasure from wild, altitudinous Heraklion.

9. Turkey treat: 2021 Dog Point Marlborough Pinot Noir, New Zealand (£34, Berry Bros & Rudd, 13.5%)

Carrying palate-boggling notes of raspberry, cranberry, violets and dried herbs, this supple organic Pinot from a small but high-quality and attractive vintage has enough fruit to stand up to turkey, duck, game and gammon. Compelling, soulful drinking from one of NZ’s finest producers.

BEST… fortifieds

10. For Christmas pud:
Morrisons The Best Pedro Ximénez (PX) NV Sherry, Spain (£7, Morrisons, 17%, 37.5cl)

This viscous, lusciously sweet PX sherry makes a marvellous substitute dessert. Think fat liquidised raisins, molasses, spice box and coffee. A dream bargain match for Christmas pud, mince pies, Roquefort and poured over ice cream. Yule be delighted.

11. Scrumptious with Stilton:
Warre’s King’s Tawny Port NV, Portugal (£10 Dec 4-Jan 1, down from £15.99, Waitrose, 19%)

Tasting of nuts, spice, coffee, crème caramel and roasted nuts, this is a mellow cask-matured tawny port that should be enjoyed chilled as an aperitif. Accompany with Comté, Parmesan, creamy desserts or dried fruits. Down to £10 as are the must-try Cave de Lugny Les Charmes Mâcon-Lugny 2023 Chardonnay (from £16.99) and Jackson Stich Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (waitrosecellar.com only from £14.99).

12. Mighty Madeira:
Henriques & Henriques 10-year-old Malvasia Madeira (£25.00, Majestic, Direct Wines, Corney & Barrow, 20%, 50cl)

Christmas is unthinkable without Madeira, the tangy fortified wine from the mountainous mid-Atlantic Portuguese Island. Have a glass with Christmas/sticky toffee pudding, mince pies, Christmas cake, mature cheddar, crème brûlée or nuts/dates and rejoice. Expect flavours of coffee, dried fruits, caramel, walnuts and roast hazelnuts. Just the job – boas festas!