Winter Warmers
This month, Tunbridge Wells Business Magazine’s Drinks Editor James Viner shares his top autumnal bottles from the Southern Rhône Valley…
As the dark evenings settle in and winter approaches, I’d like to recommend some bolstering bottles of red wine from the sun-drenched southern (méridional) Rhône Valley in southeast France, where 75% of AOC wine is red.
For those who appreciate approachable, sustaining, ripe, spicy and fruity wines that pair well with hearty soups, stews and other autumnal dishes, the generous, full-bodied red wines from the southern Rhône are hard to resist.
Grenache, the late-ripening, heat-loving grape known for its thin skin and ability to gain sugar (and alcohol) with abandon, is the star here and habitually blended with slow-ripening Mourvèdre, Carignan, Cinsault and the thick-skinned, tannin-rich Syrah, the sole red-wine grape permitted in the cooler, more prestigious northern (septentrional) Rhône crus, which typically account for around just 5-7% of the region’s wine.
Here are five vibrant, cockle-warming southern Rhône selections to perk up the cool evenings and complement the robust seasonal fare. Time to get cosy…
1. 2023 PALAIS ST VIGNI, CÔTES DU RHÔNE (£5.45, Tesco)
Launched in 1937, the Côtes du Rhône (CDR) appellation now spans 171 communes and 50,000 hectares, producing about 45% of the Rhône’s AOP wines. This unoaked, budget-friendly red is dry and straightforward, bursting with ripe red and black cherry flavours and a hint of black pepper. Perfect for autumn stews, ratatouille, or sausages and mash. 14%
2. 2022 WAITROSE BLUEPRINT CÔTES DU RHÔNE (£6.99, Waitrose)
This is an easeful, bargainous and appealingly supple blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Cinsault (fostering lightness). Think blue fruits, strawberries, woodland berries, silky purple and red plums. A perky number with filigreed tannins and high drinkability. Hello, roast duck or roasted squash and mushrooms. Lovely drinking. 14%
3. 2022 CÔTES DU RHÔNE, LE TEMPS EST VENU, STÉPHANE OGIER (£21.95, Berry Bros & Rudd)
Occasionally, the producer transcends the appellation. With more peppery/grippy Syrah than most (40%, topped up with 60% Grenache), this gorgeous, structured, classy CDR gets my thumbs-up. It offers a delicious mélange of brambles, violets, baked red plums, dried herbs, succulent black fruits and berries that develop gently and satisfyingly. Runs deliciously long. An on-song, pajamas-by-the-fire, artisanal wine from one of the Rhône’s winemaking wunderkinder. Cries out for grilled meats. 14%
4. 2022 CHAPOUTIER CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE (£29, Asda)
Tremendous full-bodied winter warmer from the historic village and famous family-owned merchant-grower situated a 15-minute drive from the remarkable historic walled city of Avignon, with lots of rich, herby, spicy, ripe blackberry and red plum fruit oomph, plus a touch of stony minerality, medium acidity, medium tannins and a fair dollop of alcohol. Sheer sensuality. Pour with beef wellington, boeuf à la gardiane and roast duck/grouse. 15%
5. 2018 THE WINE SOCIETY’S 150TH ANNIVERSARY GIGONDAS (£29, The Wine Society)
In 1971, Gigondas was the first Côtes du Rhône-Villages to be elevated to cru status in the Southern Rhône. Nestled at elevations of up to 550 meters, its vineyards benefit from the cooling shade of the jagged Dentelles de Montmirail limestone mountains (the foothills of Mont Ventoux, Provence’s highest peak), which temper morning temperatures, lending freshness to the wines. Hit the heights with this filigreed, fleshy, Grenache-forward Gigondas, scented with black olives, dried strawberry/raspberry fruit, black fruit, rose petals and thyme. Detailed, concentrated and fresh, it’s a digestible delight to drink now or lay down a few years. Shines with venison casserole, game birds and roast lamb. While I typically approach high-alcohol wines with caution, this pristine Grenache showcases a delicate flavour that’s truly exceptional. 15.5%
For more information visit
vins-rhone.com
MUST-TRY LOCAL SUPERMARKET WINE:
2023 Tesco Finest English white, Balfour Winery, Staplehurst, Kent (£12, Tesco)
The Kent wine scene is thriving, much like the Rhône Valley’s, as I discovered during an early press tasting of Domaine Evremond’s first Classic Cuvée, which will be released for sale next spring. This collaboration with Taittinger Champagne was showcased at the grand opening of the 60-hectare vineyard in Chilham at the end of September. The estate spans 125 hectares, with 60 hectares dedicated to vineyards, and is named after Charles de Saint-Évremond, renowned as ‘the first ambassador of champagne in England.’ Local Balfour Winery, a fellow member of the Wine Garden of England collective, has already built an impressive reputation. This vibrant Balfour white wine, crafted mainly from Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Bacchus, with a hint of Pinot Noir, offers an enticing blend of cut grass, citrus, nettle, stone fruit and gooseberry. Fab with fish pies or as an aperitif. Look out for the next 25% Tesco Clubcard offer on six+ bottles 11.5%
For more information visit winegardenofengland.co.uk
Good with …shellfish, fish stews & sushi
HIDALGO PASTRANA MANZANILLA PASADA NV SHERRY, SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA, SPAIN (£16-£20, The Wine Society, Waitrose, Majestic, Fortnum & Mason, 75cl)
Sherry is arguably the world’s most undervalued wine. Hidalgo’s La Gitana Manzanilla is a classic, but this more mature version—averaging twelve years – from a prized vineyard brings greater complexity with notes of iodine, Marmite, sourdough, salted almonds, brine, and chamomile. This lightly fortified Andalusian classic approaches Amontillado in style, making it a perfect match for gambas al ajillo, charcuterie and festive smoked salmon. Cheers to #sherryweek (November 4-10)! ●15%
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@QuixoticWines