Planet Organic

ByEileen Leahy

This month our Drinks Editor James Viner raises a glass to ‘Organic September,’ the yearly celebration of all things organic and its countless advantages to us and the planet

In 1994, the Soil Association launched a campaign to promote organic products and the businesses behind them. According to their 2024 Market Report, the organic food and drink market experienced a 2% growth in 2023, reaching £3.2 billion – marking twelve years of continuous growth.

So this month it’s time to elevate your organic wine experience! From the rocking Oxney Organic Estate rosé to the cracking local sparkler from Davenport Vineyards, these six planet-friendly bottles are sure to delight your taste buds. Cheers!

1. OXNEY ORGANIC ESTATE PINOT ROSÉ 2022, E. Sussex, 11.5% (£19.99-£23, Waitrose, Waitrose Cellar & oxneyestate.com) 

Pierpaolo Petrassi MW, Waitrose’s Head of Trading for Wines, recently informed me that Waitrose carries a larger selection of organic wines than any other supermarket.  Kudos for listing Oxney Organic Estate’s exceptional still organic rosé made from Pinot Noir and Meunier grapes. A joy to drink – dive in!

2. DAVENPORT VINEYARDS LIMNEY ESTATE 2018, Kent, 12% (£29.50-£29.99, Grape Britannia & davenportvineyards.co.uk)

Here’s a Chardonnay-forward, organic sparkling wine of real class, bright acidity and oodles of orchard fruit, hazelnut, and bready/creamy pizzazz from ace Kent winemaker Will Davenport. A ballerina of a bottle from one of the country’s largest and oldest organic vineyards (after ten months, the new winery has finally been built in neighbouring Horsmonden!).

3. CODORNÍU ‘CUVÉE ORIGINAL’ ORGANIC BRUT NV CAVA, Spain, 11.5% (£10 mix 6, Majestic)

Sales of Majestic’s organic wines have increased by 94% in the past year. This canny blend of equal parts Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo is dry, crisp and zesty with wet-stone acidity and a well-defined mousse – a bargainous Spanish sparkling liquid disco!

4. FONSECA TERRA PRIMA ORGANIC RESERVE PORT NV, Portugal, 20% (£20-£21.99, Amathus, Vintage Roots, Ocado & Waitrose)

Grape spirit used in organic fortified wines must be distilled from certified organic grapes, marc, or wine. In 2002, Fonseca pioneered the first fully certified organic port. Expect notes of spiced plum, raisin, and rose petals. Hello Stilton and chocolate desserts.

5. CHÂTEAU GALOUPET CRU CLASSÉ CÔTES DE PROVENCE ROSÉ 2023, France, 14% (£44.95-£48, House of Malt, Hedonism & clos19.com) 

Château Galoupet’s impeccable, beautifully structured, full-bodied, Grenache-forward maiden certified organic rosé is here and packaged in a 70% recycled amber glass bottle (au revoir lightstrike/ ‘goût de lumière’!). Think red summer fruit, mango, pomelo, yellow peach and a roasted almond/spice nip. Lovely sluice of saline acidity! Has the X-factor.

6. WHITSTABLE BAY ORGANIC ALE, SHEPHERD NEAME, Kent, 4.5% (£2.25, Waitrose 4 bottles for £7 & Ocado, 500ml)

The UK has just eight dedicated organic breweries. This light, local, golden brew from Britain’s oldest brewery (in Faversham) combines chalk-filtered mineral water, organic malted barley and Kiwi hops. The result? A bittersweet flavour with floral notes and a crisp, dry finish. 

Follow James @QuixoticWines and #OrganicSeptember

Eileen Leahy
Author: Eileen Leahy

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