Eileen Leahy is invited to experience a night’s stay at the Mount Edgcumbe Hotel and discovers that this much-loved Tunbridge Wells hospitality landmark has plenty of surprises beyond its renowned restaurant and welcoming bar…
Mount Edgcumbe has been a hospitality hotspot for many years here in Tunbridge Wells, and it’s easy to see why if you’ve ever dropped in for a drink after a walk around the surrounding Common, enjoyed dinner with friends or organised a special celebratory event in one of its private dining spaces.
It’s an establishment that prides itself on offering visitors the heartiest of welcomes, delicious seasonal food and a fantastic selection of local ales, artisan spirits and fine wines. Its strapline is ‘The heart of the country in the heart of the town’, and this historic building certainly delivers just that.
It’s one of those places that’s just as inviting in the depths of winter, thanks to its cosy ambience and famous ‘cave’ seating area, as it is during the summer months, when its terrace is pretty much packed during spells of fine weather.
Until recently, however, I had never experienced a stay in one of its six luxury boutique bedrooms. I knew they existed, of course, as the hotel has been a popular destination for visitors to Tunbridge Wells for decades. It also boasts a Tripadvisor Travellers’ Choice award. But despite being a fairly frequent visitor myself, I had never discovered what lay beyond its public spaces.
That all changed one Thursday night in early November when my husband and I were invited to the Mount Edgcumbe for dinner and an overnight stay. And I have to say we were both hugely impressed by our characterful accommodation.
To call the room we were treated to a bedroom would be to do it a huge disservice. It was, in fact, a suite, complete with a lovely sitting room beautifully decorated in rich jewel tones of jade green and teal. There was a velvet sofa, statement mirror and elegant lamps, as well as a bureau and table and chairs – ideal if you need to catch up on a little work during your stay.
The bathroom was equally impressive, boasting elegant white plantation-style shutters, a beautiful slipper bath and a spacious walk-in shower. The walls were adorned with pale grey and white Toile de Jouy wallpaper, its intricate pastoral scenes adding a touch of traditional French elegance. Bramley pampering products were also provided for guests – a thoughtful little luxury.
Our bedroom, with its crisp white linens, elegant panelling and soft, neutral tones, created a wonderfully calming atmosphere. But again, there were those little decorative touches everywhere, including cushions featuring an exotic safari-inspired animal and botanical print. Beautifully symmetrical bedside tables, topped with statement glass lamps, added to the sense of understated luxury.
After dropping off our belongings, we took a quick tour of the private dining rooms upstairs. My siblings and I hosted our mother’s 80th birthday in the hotel’s Parliament Room a few years ago, and it was one of the best family celebrations we’d had – and believe me, there have been many over the years! The staff were brilliant, and the food and drink were exceptional.
But back to the present day. My husband and I headed down to the main restaurant for dinner. We accessed it via a hallway decorated in striking Harlequin-print wallpaper and statement gold mirrors, followed by a narrow staircase flanked by walls adorned with colourful vintage wallpaper depicting scenes of traditional circus performers and opera singers. No corner of this building is devoid of visual interest!
The restaurant boasts various charming nooks and crannies in which to sit, as well as a magnificent orangery, where we were invited to dine for the evening.
The décor here is, just like the rest of the establishment, stylish, eclectic and eye-catching.
Mount Edgcumbe’s love of animals and quirky details is evident everywhere, from ornamental birdcages and decorative artefacts hanging from the ceilings to antique tables dotted around the restaurant. Swags of fairy lights create a wonderfully enchanting atmosphere.
We’re handed our menus, which are packed with seasonal dishes, including starters of sautéed wild mushrooms, warm beetroot and potato salad and curried cauliflower soup.
I decide to try the herb-encrusted pork tenderloin, served with chimichurri dressing, crispy sage and potato purée. The meat is cooked perfectly pink and is beautifully succulent, complemented by the fresh, vibrant zing of the chimichurri. Crispy sage adds an aromatic crunch, while a smooth, buttery potato purée brings everything together.
Steve chooses the chilli-salted squid, which has a beautifully light, crisp coating with a gentle hint of heat. The sweet chilli dip provides a delicious contrast of sweetness and spice, while a fresh mixed-leaf salad adds a welcome burst of freshness. A really enjoyable, moreish starter.
After ordering our first courses, we’re handed the extensive wine list and invited to choose something to accompany our meal.
The hotel has worked with the same wine supplier, Ellis of Richmond, a family business dating back to 1822. The wines on offer, the majority of which are available by the glass, are clearly expertly curated, with a strong focus on local vineyards. As the sommelier explains, the hotel is passionate about supporting vineyards across Kent and Sussex.
And refreshingly, it’s not just the more obvious names that feature on the list. There are also smaller wineries represented, including Tickerage Vineyard in Blackboys, East Sussex, and Mudwall Vineyard in Biddenden.
We opt for a bottle of Saurus Pinot Noir from Patagonia, which proves to be a deliciously elegant choice, with vibrant red berry flavours, hints of cherry and subtle earthy notes.
The choice of main courses is equally impressive. A delicious-sounding steak and ale pie with buttered mash and seasonal vegetables is very tempting on this chilly winter’s evening, but I eventually settle on the stone bass, served with a rich brown shrimp and haricot bean cassoulet, shards of crispy kale and buttered seaweed.
It is picture-perfect in its presentation, generous in size and absolutely sensational. Sadly, it defeats me, so next time I order it I’ll skip a starter, as it’s worth every mouthful. My dining companion knows as soon as he spots the fillet steak, served with hand-cut chips, roasted tomatoes and beer-battered onion rings, that this is going to be his choice. The meat is melt-in-the-mouth, while the sides boast just the right amount of crunch.
To finish, we share a Conference pear pavlova and a coffee crème brûlée with ice cream and homemade mini doughnuts.
Both are beautifully presented and make for a suitably indulgent finale to our epicurean experience.
By now, the dining room has emptied out and it’s time to retire to our fashionable and relaxing quarters for the night. I can confirm the bed is extremely comfortable, but, as is often the case with anything enjoyable, our time at Mount Edgcumbe passes far too quickly.
Before we know it, it’s 7.30am and time to road-test the shower, which, unlike those in many hotels, is wonderfully powerful. As the morning mist begins to lift, we reluctantly head downstairs for our last supper – well, breakfast, actually – and are greeted by more friendly members of staff and the most stunning autumnal views of the surrounding Common.
Although we can’t linger for long, with work beckoning, the delicious bacon sandwiches, fresh juice and hot coffees help soften the blow of having to leave this little rural idyll in the heart of Tunbridge Wells.
It’s easy to understand why the Mount Edgcumbe has been a favourite with locals and visitors for so long. But if, like me, you’ve always thought of it primarily as somewhere to eat, drink and celebrate, a night here might just change your mind. With its beautifully appointed individual bedrooms, fabulous food and warm hospitality, it offers a rather special reason to look at this much-loved local landmark in an entirely new light – and, perhaps, to book yourself…
To enquire about booking a room visit www.themountedgcumbe.com
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